The Ins and Outs of Marcasite
Marcasite is the jewellery term given to iron pyrite crystals. It has a brass yellow glow that resembles that of gold and more than a few men have mistaken it for the more valuable mineral. Hence the name: Fool?s Gold is given to it. Jewelers later found out that when faceted just right, Marcasites can be made to glitter and reflect light like diamonds do. Marcasite Jewellery became popular in the late 17th century and during the Victorian Era. They were produced in order to substitute for diamonds which during those times were often restricted to royalty and noblemen. At present, it is produced in vintage styles reminiscent of the Art Nouveau designs which were very popular for Marcasite.
The Marcasite Confusion
Before moving forward, it is important to make note that the Marcasite used in jewellery today is not true Marcasite. Instead it is a form of Iron Pyrite. Iron Pyrite and True Marcasite are polymorphs of each other. This means that they are of the same chemical composition, they only differ in the way that the particles crystallize. True Marcasite cannot be used in jewellery making because it is very brittle in nature and will often crumble to touch. The outward appearance of true marcasite and pyrite are also very different. Pyrite forms angular crystal shapes while true marcasite is often found in a cock?s comb shape.
True marcasite is actually lighter and whitish yellow in color compared to the pyrite used in marcasite jewellery. It is also very grainy and crumbly. As mentioned, true marcasite has the tendency to decompose with no known reason for and some true marcasite minerals are difficult to distinguish from other forms of pyrite.
The Marcasite that is used in jewellery making is often referred to as White Iron Pyrite. This name is much closer to the truth rather than calling it marcasite. But since, that is what the jewellery has been known over time, jewelers did not bother change the name anymore.
Mineral Pyrite
Pyrite is the common name for iron sulfide. It is generally found in nature in a wide variety of locations. It is brass yellow in color that is why it is often mistaken for gold and given the nickname ?Fool?s Gold?. Mineral Pyrite has a metallic luster that shines beautifully when chiseled with facets. The yellowish tint of pyrite is a result of the presence of sulfur in the crystal while Pyrite Crystals are opaque in nature.
History of Marcasite Jewellery
Marcasite Jewellery or pyrite has been present for a long time in history. Some claims would even indicate that Queen Cleopatra preferred the use of marcasite because it helped her maintain her beauty. But, it was at the beginning of the 16th century and up to the Victorian Era that Marcasite enjoyed quiet a degree of popularity among royalty, noblemen and common folks alike.
Marcasite rose into popularity during this time because only the royalty and a select few of the nobility were allowed to wear diamonds. This is during the time when merchants were slowly becoming more powerful and richer than a lot of the noble people. The restriction was imposed so that there was a clear line between the noble born and the commoners. The Upper Class was afraid that the common man would become so rich that he can walk down the streets with diamonds that used to be only available to kings. A few other items like pearls were also restricted to nobility alone and a lot of rich merchants had to content themselves by using fake ones manufactured in other parts of Europe.
This is when the Marcasite jewellery truly excelled since they were not restricted for use and when crafted properly they were as beautiful as diamonds. Despite Marcasite having a reputation as affordable jewellery, it was still greatly appreciated by some of the famous ladies throughout history. Marie Antoinette of France is said to have favored Marcasite over diamonds and Queen Victoria of England was also known to prefer marcasite jewellery.
The Marcasite Shift
Marcasite has been valued throughout history because of its reflective ability towards light. A properly cut marcasite may even shine and glisten better than diamond. This is the property that has endeared marcasite jewellery to the world. With leaders like Cleopatra, Marie Antoinette and Queen Victoria showing preference for the mineral, who can blame the world for shifting its gaze and looking more intently at marcasite jewellery?
It is of course widely accepted that nothing beats diamonds when it comes to durability, beauty and elegance. But, the hard fact with diamonds is that it is very expensive. So, for an individual who is looking for jewellery that will have the shine of diamonds but without the strain on the pockets, marcasite is the perfect choice.
Marcasite is much more affordable than diamonds and it goes great with sterling silver. Marcasite crystals and Sterling Silver create beautiful jewellery that is reminiscent of heirloom pieces from the Victorian and Art Nouveau Eras.
What makes marcasite better than other diamond substitutions like CZ is that marcasite does not attempt to fool anybody. It does not attempt to appear like diamonds like the way CZ does, because it really does not. It?s darker and brassy in color. It is just used as a diamond replacement because it can be made to shine and glitter beautifully when it is properly faceted. It only gives an alternative to the precious stone by its reflective nature and not as a diamond decoy.
Marcasite and Sterling Silver ? A Match Made in Heaven
Marcasite and Sterling Silver seem to go together like fish and chips. Sterling Silver has been proven to be the perfect medium for the dark coloration of marcasite. It makes marcasite blend in spectacularly without having it look like it was a cheap stone.
Marcasite and sterling silver have long been partners and it is with silver that marcasite excels the most. Almost all of the marcasite jewellery found in the market today is inlaid in silver. The darkness of the marcasite compliments the light color of silver as well as its reflectivity. Silver Patina appeals to a lot of people and sometimes marcasite stones add to the look of patina on silver.
All sorts of jewellery have been made with the use of marcasite and silver. From brooches that were popular in the Victorian Era to modern style of jewellery like hoop earrings and modern style pendants. There seems to be no end to the possibilities that marcasite and Sterling Silver can achieve together.
Marcasite and Gold just does not seem to mix. The yellowish tint of gold tends to clash with the yellow brass tone of marcasite. Setting Marcasite in gold tends to make both minerals looks dull and ruddy. However, this is not a general rule because a lot of jewelers have managed to create beautiful gold and marcasite jewellery. The greatest danger with inlaying marcasite in gold is that it tends to make the mineral look like ordinary stones and not semi-precious minerals.
Marcasite Jewellery Designs
Marcasite Jewellery Designs range from simple items that have a minimal amount of marcasite to vintage looking jewellery and a few modern designs. The Vintage look with romantic Art Nouveau styles is one of the best sellers when it comes to marcasite Jewellery.
The Victorian Era as well as those that followed it closely is one of the biggest inspirations when it comes to modern day marcasite jewellery designs. This is perhaps because it was during the Victorian Era that Marcasite Jewellery was at the height of its popularity with Queen Victoria preferring to wear it over real diamond jewellery. The Victorian Design principle is very stylized with a lot of attention being paid to little details.
Another design era that is so influential with marcasite jewellery design is that of the Art Nouveau Era. This era saw the birth of jewellery that was greatly inspired by the surrounding flora and fauna at that time. Jewellery became more feminine with swirls and various other intricate lines surrounding the jewellery.
The Art Deco style sensibility although more modern than Victorian style had some influence on the styles of modern marcasite jewellery. Marcasite is often used inlaid in the silver that surrounds some central piece in the middle of the item. It may be various types of stones and semi-precious gems to pearls and even CZ. Sometimes jewellery shaped in the form of animals are completely encrusted in marcasite.
The Future of Marcasite Jewellery
The future for Marcasite Jewellery is as sparkly as the mineral itself. There is a reason why Marcasite Jewellery has lasted this long in the market. And it will continue to inspire and be created for as long as there is a demand for these ?erroneously? named stones. Truly, the world will be seeing more and more of them. One quality that they have is that they are very flexible and adaptable to current fashion trends, it is hard to believe that they will ever be forgotten and unused
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